Before visiting the Temples of Angkor, we had done no reading. We had not even seen Tomb Raider, although we knew where to go to see the famous bit from the movie. ($1 at the market has since rectified this, by the way. Pretty much $1 and two hours wasted in my opinion).
Deciding not to hire a guide, we wandered ourselves about the temples of Angkor, following our noses and stopping when we felt like it. One day we even went home to sleep in the aircon half way between long exciting clambering sessions. Our three days were feasts of history and feasts of people watching. So many languages were being spoken around us, so many buses, guides, salespeople, begging busking children and plenty of old, old temples. Some crumbling and indistinguishable, some under restoration, and some battling it out with the slow strong winding roots of ancient trees.